Contemporary fashion is changing. The new frontier? Genderless. The goal is to cancel the sexual differences with, only, the strength of the clothes. Genderless describes a concept that sees a garment not being prescribed to a preferred gender when designed, and it differentiate itself from fashion’s established notions of “menswear” and “womenswear”. And if before, menswear and womenswear collections have always lived on two different planets, and presented in different fashion show, now things are changing.
Gucci is our first example, in 2017 Gucci family affirmed that showing men’s and women’s collection separated is an outdated concept, while combining them is a natural process. And in the collection featured transparent shirts and blouses, dresses, skirts and pants for both genders but without any bounders.
“IT SEEMS ONLY NATURAL TO ME TO PRESENT MY MEN’S AND WOMEN’S COLLECTIONS TOGETHER, IT’S THE WAY I SEE THE WORLD TODAY.”
– Alessandro Michele
His way of thinking fits perfectly with the new ideas of the modern society where the line that separated masculinity and femininity has disappeared, where there are no longer arbitrary categories, or better where we are trying to let everyone feel comfortable.
And in the same way fashion is moving forward, it is revolutionizing, and the new slogan is “Dress how you want”, gender is not a constriction anymore. And even if we said that Gucci is one of the ambassadors of the no gender fashion, we also have to say that not just him but also many other designers started to follow this current, and for example the entire Spring / Summer 2019 season in Paris was dominated by this new mentality.
Maison Margiela and its creative director John Galliano launched last September an unisex collection where dresses and heels, that are conventionally defined as womenswear, are now read as male items, and garment that we are used to see in men’s closets are now worn by every models without considering the gender. This to erase those gender-specific standards in a way that the audience can interpret the show in the best way they think without any restriction of gender. Galliano didn’t want to label their cloths as male or female garments because, for him, people should be free to wear what they want, to discover their sexuality and sensuality. For him we have to go beyond the archaic gender codes.
“WHAT IS MASCULINITY AND FEMININITY TODAY? I HOPE THIS IS A JOURNEY TO HELP US DISCOVER A NEW SENSUALITY, A NEW SEXUALITY, BREAKING DOWN PRE-CONCEIVED IDEAS OF WHAT’S MASCULINE AND WHAT’S FEMININE.”
– John Galliano
People, today, have many definitions for their gender, so it would be foolish if someone with their clothes should pick in between man or woman. Everyone should be free to express themselves, maybe starting from their garments to feel at ease when they walk around the city or when they go to work. So what can fashion do? Following the example of Maison Margiela, Gucci and many others, the fashion industry could remove the labels and broke down all the stereotypes to arrive at the acceptation and normalisation of gender identities.